Thursday Tutorial: PJ Pillow Part 1

 I wanted to make little throw pillows for K and HD to put their pajamas in each morning.  After a couple of tries, this is what came out

Here are the rough steps in making your own pajama pillows. The key to this project is creativity.  You can make your pillow in any image that fits with your child, but for this tutorial, I'll be demonstrating with the Super-Kid pajama pillow that I sell at my shows.

Step 1- Gather your Materials:

I use soft flannel, but really anything can work.  I have made them in fleece, which while more expensive, it does give the added benefit of not fraying so you don't have to take care of the rough edges.  You'll need fabric for head (1/2 yardish), fabric for hair (1/4 yard if that), fabric scrap for mask, scraps for eyes, thread, scissors, and a dinner plate.

tracing head front

Step 2:  Trace Patterns:

Using a fabric marker, trace around the dinner plate on the head fabric for the head front.  Then take that circle and fold it in half.  Trace a rough semi circle using the head front as a guide adding 4 inches to the straight edge to allow for overlap and finished straight edge for the flap opening.  Trace another semi circle similar to the first.  These 2 flaps will overlap to form one complete circle the same size as the head front and these 2 together will be the outside  head back.  You will also need to trace 2 more semi circles like the last two.  These will become the inside pillow back.

 tracing semi circles for outside head back and inside pillow back

Add 4 inches to each semi circle so that one overlap the other leaving room for a finished hem on each straight side.

You should end up with 4 of something like this for outside head back and inside pillow front.

At this point, let me explain that you are making a double envelope opening pillow-2 pillows in one.  One pillow (the inside pillow) will be stuffed and sewn shut.  The outside pillow flaps will be left open to store the pajamas in it.  It sounds much more confusing then it is.  It will make more sense as we move through the construction.

Now trace on the hair fabric some front hair fringe that will fit the top of the head front, and trace the back hair that will fit on the top of the outside head back.

hair front fringe

hair back

Now trace a mask that is the same width as the head front.  I made this one blue.  Cut two eyes that fit to scale with the mask.

mask

Step 3:  Cut Pieces:

You should have:

• Head front circle
• Outside head back (2 semi circles, that overlap to form one circle)
• Inside pillow back ( 2 semi circles that overlap to form one circle)
• Hair front fringe
• Hair back
• Mask
• Two eyes

Step 4:  Applique Face

Set and pin the hair, mask, and eyes to head front.  Using a washable fabric marker, sketch a nose and mouth to your liking.  Applique each piece to the head front.  I used a small and tight zig zag stitch.  If you are using fleece, you could just sew it on with a straight stitch as it will not fray.

When it comes to the nose, I used pink thread and a heart satin stitch on my sewing machine.  

sewing back hair to outside head back

For the mouth, I used red thread and a think triple stitch to embroider the mouth.  Naturally there are many other ways to do this appliqué.  For example, the whole face and hair could be embroidered.  Do what you like best and feel most comfortable with.

Lastly, sew the back hair to the top half of the outside head back.

Place pieces for appliqué 

Part 1 complete…next week, we will put it together and sew it up.  Then finally finish the pillow by stuffing a sewing...

Wordless Wednesday

Machine Foot Monday

If you're like me, you probably have one of these that came with your sewing machine, but haven't taken the time to try it out.  But now is the time-it's a walking foot.  It wasn't until very recently that I gave this foot a try, and now I have a hard time using any other foot.  It's that awesome.

The walking foot, or sometimes called even feed foot helps with sewing projects that include heavier materials, or several layers.  It's most common application is when making quilts as it helps your seams not get bunched up.

I first tried this foot while sewing my new lined leather totes, and it worked so well that I now use it for making my baby blankets and other items that have several layers together.

To further explain, with your machine you have feed dogs that pull your fabric forward from below, but if you have 2 layers (or more) of fabric, sometimes the seam gets bunched as the top fabric lags behind the bottom fabric.  Pinning carefully can help solve this problem, but depending on the stretch of the fabric, it just might not be enough.

How the walking foot helps is that it has a feeding mechanism in it that also pulls your top fabric evenly with your bottom fabric, hence the alternate name of name even feed foot.  Therefore by using this foot, your seams have a better chance of lying flat and not bunching.

Notice in the picture how smooth the walking foot leaves the seam, while the regular pressure foot leaves the seam bunched at places.  This can be problem for some projects.  Give this foot a walk!

Two Simple Rules...

When I am sewing, there are two rules that I follow consistently.

1.  Always buy the best materials you can afford.  Think about it, if you are about to spend the next several hours, and maybe even days making something with your own two hands, make sure you LOVE the materials that you are working with.  If you love the fabric that you are about to rip into, then you will end up making something that you will love.   This does not always equate to money, but sadly, it often does.  So for my two cents, if your going to put so much of your time into making something, make sure that you are using materials that you really love.

2.  Take great caution to cut your lines straight.  I believe this is the key to sewing.  When you sew, you follow the edges of your fabric along your seam guide, hence straight cuts are the key.

Here's an easy project that gets miles in our home:

Simple Pajama Pants:

Materials:

-Fabric-Now for this project, I really love the flannel prints that are abundant at Joann's, especially for children's pants as they grow so quickly.  It's fun, comfy, and very affordable.  You'll need about 1-1 1/2 yards depending on the size.  (make your pattern first and then measure to see just how much you'll need)
-Non-roll elastic

You don't need to buy a stinking pattern, let's first make our own:

1.  Grab a pair of pants that fit, fold in half lengthwise (like a hotdog bun-I used to tell my students that for a vertical fold) and lay them on some paper.  I like to use freezer paper, but you could just tape together regular computer paper...Or even wrapping paper, really anything.  Trace around them, adding about 1/2 inch for the seam allowance and about 3-4 inches to the top for the elastic casing and about 3 inches to each pant leg for the bottom hem..  Pull the waist band taught when you trace the waist portion to show the true size.  Do 2 traces:   one for the front, and then refold the opposite side for the back of the pants.  Usually there is a very slight difference.

Trace Back of Pants

Trace Front of Pants

2.  Cut the pattern pieces and place on your folded fabric.  Trace around and cut your pants' pieces...You'll have 4 pieces: 2 fronts and 2 backs.  Do not cut on fold, you want 4 separate pieces.

That's all there is to making the pattern...Again, why buy one?  

Sew it up!

1.  Put the front pair RST and sew along the crotch curve.  Put back pair RST and sew along bottom curve.  You will now have 2 pieces; one sewn together at the crotch, and the other sewn together at the bottom.  Finish each seam with a zigzag stitch.

2.  Put front and back RST, and pin along the inseam.  Sew along the inseam.  Finish seams with zig zag stitch.

3.  Now, repin along the outside edges of each pant leg.  Sew along each side.  Finish seams.

Now you should have a pair of pants!

Finish with the hems:

1.  Fold and iron the top to form a top casing for the waistband elastic.  I do a double fold: a small fold to turn the raw edges in and then a deeper fold for the casing.  Sew around the fold, thus making the casing.  Leave about a 2 inch opening at the back for which to thread the elastic through.   Cut a length of elastic the waist measurement plus a inch.  Thread through the case using a safety pin attached to one end.  When the ends meet, sew them together and then sew your casing shut.  Waistband complete.

              

             

Leave opening in waist casing for which to thread elastic through.

2.  Now do the same sort of folding with each pant leg.  Sew as you would the waist casing, although do not leave an opening.  You can make your hem as wide or narrow as you want.  I often like to do a double stitch.  Sometimes, I even do a decorative stitch.  

Pants Hem

Rock On In Your New Pants!

Simple Clutch

A new project that I have been making for this spring's show are simple clutches with open channel metal kisslock purse frames...

I came to this project via a very long and windy road.  I am obsessed with the looks of these bags that I drool over whenever I see them:

I have lofty goals to learn how to make actual carpet bags, a la Mary Poppins, but for right now I am aiming a little lower to work out some of the kinks when it comes to using metal purse frame hardware.

This clutch is easy-peasy, and so satisfying when complete, that I thought I would share the steps:

Materials:

-13"high by 13.5" wide square of main fabric (drapery/ lighter weight home interior fabric works well.  Do not get too heavy of fabric, especially for your first go as it mighn't fit in the channel.

-same dimensions lining fabric

-same dimensions interfacing

-about a 10" wide by 13" strip of fusible fleece.

-one 6.5" glue-in metal frame (can be found abundantly on Etsy)

-industrial strength glue, I use Gutermann's glue

Part 1:  Preparing the Fabric

1. Cut outer fabric square and fuse interfacing onto the wrong side.  Center fusible fleece and fuse on wrong side on top of interfacing.

Cut Main Fabric

Cut Lining

Fuse Interfacing and Fusible Fleece on Wrong Side of Main Fabric

Part 2:  Sewing the Clutch

2.  Sew RST main fabric to lining along the two top long (13.5") edges with .5" seam.
3. Trim the seam to 1/4" and turn RSO and press.
4.  Sew along the seam to provide and nice flat, finished edge.  I believe this serves 2 purposes:  1)  some stability when placing the edge in the frame, and also give a nice finished edge for the parts that are not concealed by the frame.
5.  Fold clutch in half and secure with binder clips.  Sew a 3/8" seam along both "open" ends.  Trim and clip corners.
6.  Turn WSO and complete a FRENCH SEAM.  This sound fancy, but basically, sew a seam on the wrong side encasing the last seam.

Sew RST Along the Two Long Top Edges

Turn RSO and Press Seams

Sew Along Top Edges to Finish

Fold Clutch in Half, RSO, Matching the Top Edges and Secure With Binder Clips, Then Sew Each Side

Trim Each Side and Clip Corners

Turn WSO, Encase Seam in a FRENCH SEAM by Sewing Along Each Side  Again, This Time On the Wrong Side (Lining Side)

Part 3:  Boxing the Bottom

7.  Turn RSO and "box the bottom by taking the corner and sewing a diagonal seam(I use a marking pen to draw the seam on the fabric on which I will sew) from side to side 1 1/2" long.  Trim seam to 1/4"*In the pictures below, I am using a different main fabric...Sorry for the differences..

8.  Turn WSO and complete a FRENCH SEAM.  Again simply sew on the wrong side along the seam.

9.  Turn RSO-bag sewn and complete.

Box Each Corner Bottom by Sewing a 1 1/2 " Seam Diagonally

Part 4:  Attach Frame

10.  Measure length of clutch to help center frame onto the clutch.  Mark 2 lines on either side where you should glue the frame.  My clutch ended up 11.5" long, hence I placed my frame in 2.5" on either side. (11.5-6.5/2=2.5)

11.  Put a thin bead of glue inside the open channel of one side of the frame.  Slip the clutch edge into the channel, working carefully, but quickly.  In my opinion this is the hardest part.  If you get glue on the frame, no big deal, you can rub it off, but you do not want glue on the showing part of the fabric.

12.  Let the glue dry for a spell before you attempt to glue the opposite side of the frame.  But, when it seems pretty secure, glue the 2nd side in the same fashion.

13.  Allow the clutch  to sit for 24 hours while the glue dries and sets.

14.  Open frame,  and fold edges inside of frame to finish.

6.5 Open Channel Purse Frame

Apply Thin Bead of Glue Into First Channel, Repeat For 2nd Side

 It's That Easy!

woof...woof...woof

I've been stuck on a new fascination over here...I have been reworking some vintage toy patterns and breathing new life into them.  Ever since I made the Waldorf Doll last year and the many crochet amigurumis years before,  I have been fascinated with drafting and creating three dimensional stuffed goodies.  To help learn the process and technique, I dug up this oldy, but goody:  a 1970's dachshund pattern.  I reworked it a bit and came up with the Dachshund 2013.  I'm thinking it as a start for this year's craft fair line up...